Back in the Summer that year in Leitrim, she had been struck
by a conversation with her cousin on the subject of where her great grandfather
on her father’s side had come from. Her great grandfather and his 3 brothers
originally came from Killery Mountain in County Sligo. When they were young men, in that generation that came after the famine, they travelled from Killery to settle in Killargue in County Leitrim. This is a place with small rolling hills snuggled down between the mountain ranges of Castlegal to the west and the Glenfarne plateau to the east. Killargue was an ancient place of pilgrimage because of its Holy Well. The Holy Well was attached to a religious settlement, Cill Fearga or "Church of Fearga" which was founded by a holy woman called Fearga in the 6th century.
And from Cill Fearga came the name Killargue. Her great grandfather and his brothers settled up in the rather bleaker highlands surrounding Killargue, somewhere around the townlands of Lughnaskeehan (or Hollow of the Wings) and Buckhillbarr (or Top of Buck’s Hill). Years later her great grandfather moved from the hard, hard life up on the slopes of that Glenfarne plateau to a small bit of an easier life down in the lowlands in Killargue - to a hollow of a townland named Curry (or Marshy Place). It was nearer the main road there and of course, there was that place of pilgrimage for what was then a devout
Catholic population, the Holy Well. Several generations of his family
were reared in a small stone house there, many of whom emigrated to America.
And from Cill Fearga came the name Killargue. Her great grandfather and his brothers settled up in the rather bleaker highlands surrounding Killargue, somewhere around the townlands of Lughnaskeehan (or Hollow of the Wings) and Buckhillbarr (or Top of Buck’s Hill). Years later her great grandfather moved from the hard, hard life up on the slopes of that Glenfarne plateau to a small bit of an easier life down in the lowlands in Killargue - to a hollow of a townland named Curry (or Marshy Place). It was nearer the main road there and of course, there was that place of pilgrimage for what was then a devout
Killery Mountain, County Sligo |
Killery is near Slishwood an ancient forest and an islet
called Innisfree, made famous by Yeats and in later years that classic of a
film “The Quiet Man”. Coincidentally in recent years, Slishwood had become for
her, a go to place for a bit of reflection and there is a great loop walk which
runs along by a lake called Lough Gill. There is a wee peninsula along the walk
where she liked to step out onto, every couple of months. Looking out on the still,
glasslike lake, reflecting the lilac greys or dove egg blue hues of the sky,
depending on the weather, she liked to pause and take stock.
She took a walk in Slishwood towards the end of Autumn on a
crisp, warm sunny day – one of the last before Winter stops all in their tracks.
The forest leaves glowed orange and red – both, on the trees and then carpeting
the woodland path. She took the loop path up above the lake and looked down and
around on the ever deepening reds of the woods and part of a Dylan Thomas poem
came to mind:
“It was my
thirtieth year to heaven,
Stood there
then in the summer noon,
Though the
town below lay leaved in October blood.
O may my
heart’s truth still be sung on this high hill in a year’s turning.”
Her father had recently died and
she too wondered what the next year’s turning would bring.
Sometimes she would see a robin. It had that somewhat disconcerting, yet charming manner robins have, of coming very close as if they want to pass on a message. She recalled how people said that when you see a robin it means that a passed on much loved one was paying a visit. She was both upset and comforted.
At that time she visited Slishwood once again. It occurred to her that her great grandfather and his brothers had also, just like herself, probably frequented those places around Killery, like Slishwood and Innisfree. Had her great grandfather stood on that same wee peninsula that she felt drawn to? There is a graveyard in Killery that dates back to the 15th century. Almost hidden among the tomb stones is a collection of egg shaped stones around a small rectangular stone, with pieces of thread and string around it. This “straining string” supposedly possesses an infallible cure for all manner of pains, aches and strains. The sufferer or deputy removes from the “straining stone”, a piece of string, replacing it with another string. They then take each stone in succession and repeat certain prayers whilst turning it. Had her young great grandfather or his brothers deputised for an older member of the family with advanced rheumatism in this ancient ritual? Ireland or Hibernia (as the Romans called it – forever Winter) with its phlegmatic weather caused many aches and pains as evidenced by the ancient sweat houses dotted around the landscape – beehive- like saunas to soothe the bones.
Yes, November that year for her certainly opened the door a
crack, to past lives and times and as always a time to nurse aching bones and
aching thoughts in by the fire, away from foggy, damp, seeping days.
The end of November/beginning of December brought a few
more, bright, crisp days that dug her out of her hibernation. Her interest had been piqued by a new café that had opened up in
Dromahair, a village near Killargue and was called The Village Tea Rooms. The
café adjoined the back of the Stanford Arms pub along the main street. The
rooms looked out onto the woods leading down to the Bonet River, Leitrim’s
version of the Amazon. There were benches outside and remaining Autumn leaves were
piled thickly around, hues of russet and scarlet.
Also, a loop walk had been established in Dromahair which
encompassed a part of the old railway that went through Dromahair that was part
of the Sligo, Leitrim and Northern Counties (SLNCR) line that went from
Enniskillen to Sligo and closed in 1957. The loop walk also included Creevelea
Abbey, the last Franciscan friary to be founded in Ireland. It was built in
1508 by the O Rourke’s who were the ancient Kings of the kingdom of Breifne
which covered the counties of Leitrim, Cavan and Sligo of which Dromahair was
the capital. The abbey was in use until the 17th century when the
Franciscans were forced to leave by the Cromwellian army. It seems that this
part is now the beginning of the new loop walk. The light was starting to fall
so after stopping at the Village Tea
Rooms, she walked briskly, curious as a cat to complete the walk. It continued
down the lane that led from the abbey to the main road, wound its way up
through rolling hills and pasture and then down over a quaint, arched bridge
over bubbling water, shaded by trees. And there was the old railway line as
straight as a die, heading off towards Dromahair under a canopy of trees. It ran
alongside the babbling brook she had just crossed over. She walked along for
around half a mile, cows in a nearby field gazing calmly on. Eventually the
railway path came out at another bridge and the old Dromahair railway station
that lay alongside the Clubhouse pub that houses the popular Riverbank Restaurant.
The walk is around 5km.
Seeing the railway station at Dromahair had reminded her of
another story in the family. She remembered a story of one of her great aunts.
At 16 years of age her father brought her to the station at Dromahair. He saw
her off on the train to America at a time when someone going abroad was as if
they had passed on – into another life
where those left behind could not enter. That is how America was in those days
to those left behind in Ireland – another world, another life, a person never
to be seen again, not in this life anyway.
Her great grandfather
had many daughters, most of whom emigrated to America. Thus, there are many
American cousins who are descendants of those daughters and they come over
periodically to Leitrim and bring their children. They visit the old house down
in Curry in Killargue and show their children where it all began, so to speak –
it is almost like a pilgrimage, a rite of passage. They too have stories that
have been handed down about Killargue, Leitrim, who is related to who, what
happened when they got to America etc. Sometimes the cousins who have remained
in Leitrim are asked to show the American cousins a particular field remembered
fondly by their grandmother or great aunt. Back then the fields had names and
some of them were never forgotten by those who went to America. They could
describe every hedge, stone, hawthorn bush and grassy tuft.
Just before Christmas one of her cousins came over from
America with her husband and four year old daughter. The child was a bundle of
fun - feisty, lively and adventurous, those qualities as many recalled, had
been present in her great, great, grandmother who had left on that train from
Dromahair several generations ago. They all went to Dromahair to have tea and cake
in The Village Tea Rooms and then do part of the loop walk including the railway
station and old track. Her cousin had
explained the story to her daughter about her great, great grandmother and the
wee one was looking forward to standing and walking in those very spots
outlined in the story. Already the child was very excited by another event.
They had just come from a place near Drumkeerin, the nearest village to
Killargue, called Spencer Harbour on the shores of Lough Allen. It had been
raining relentlessly and they had all sat huddled in the car creating their own
little sauna. Suddenly a grey heap that everyone had assumed from the misty
interiors of the car was a big stone, dissolved in the rain and walked off – 3
deer, one with antlers, sauntering off into the nearby trees, flicking their
tails. The little girl was almost bursting with joy as she was convinced the one
with the antlers was Rudolf the Red nosed Reindeer, though the presence of a
red nose could not be verified.
The Village Tea Rooms were alive with chatter, cutlery
rattling, tables thronged with murmuring talk and as the little girl called
them, big boys, running around the benches outside, swinging their arms like
windmills, kicking up leaves under the trees. The rain had stopped and although
the day was still and grey, colours and evocative scents of baking abounded in the café. Delicate blues and pinks patterned the china
cups and side plates. The warm toasty browns and cream colours of the cakes and
scones tempted all to have a “piece of something” with their tea. Christmas
lights winked off the cosy brick walls, holly and decorated branches strewn
around the lintels and pictures. There was a cake with a wonderful name on the
menu, that none of us in Ireland had heard of, though the American cousins had
- a Hummingbird Cake. It has its origins in the American South and was a
mixture of bananas, pineapple and coconut with a zesty cream cheese icing on
top, sprinkled with walnuts. One of her cousins said it is rumoured that the
origins of the name are because it makes you hum with happiness. Within minutes
at the instigation of the wee girl, it was if a hive of bees had landed among
them as they did exactly what the recipe demanded. Their humming drew peals of
laughter from nearby tables.
Later, they all went for a walk. The day was calm now that
the rain had stopped, the sky, shades of
slate and pale lilac that gives those grey Winter days in Ireland ,though sombre, also a
pleasing aspect. But it was becoming cold and frosty as the light was waning. They arrived at the old Dromahair railway
station and the newly renovated path of the old railway track stretched ahead.
As they started to walk along the child began tugging on her mother’s hand
demanding to know why she could not wait at the station and get the train just
like great, great nana. Her mother kept explaining that it was not possible as
that was many years ago and now there were no trains. The afternoon was
lengthening on the heels of a busy, full day and a shrill, tired edge of
petulance entered the child’s voice. Her mother, also tired, kept answering the
why, why, whys with weary resignation. She asked her daughter to go on up the
track and with a swing of her arm the child extricated herself from her mother
and skipped off, good mood restored. They all walked silently on, watching her
little skipping figure up ahead in the darkening afternoon. She saw that the
girl’s mother looked somewhat stricken as if imagining another young
figure many ,many years ago, standing at the railway station looking in
the same direction up the track, waiting at
the station, looking towards
America, waiting for the train to come – single fare only.
Up ahead, the little girl stopped suddenly in her tracks as
if something had occurred to her and turned around. She stood there facing
them, breathing out dragon’s breath on that cold Winter day and put her head on
one side and her hands on her hips. With that indomitable sense of the
unconquerable and endless possibilities that young children have - and her voice
a happy echo in the still of the day - she said “Well, if we can’t go on the
train, let’s skip back to America then and we’ll be home in time for Christmas”